Show us your Crabs mate! 18/02/2011: Plu Phat beach to Kra Buri

Another most uncomfortable night in the tent but it does mean I’m preserving my ever dwindling budget. Since leaving Krabi I have made 1000baht last me (including today after paying for accomadation).  I tried to pack my camp away as quick as I could but sadly it still took me 2 hours before I was on the move despite being more organized. This morning there was a few motorbikes going back and forth past where i was, one motorbike came right past me and the rider showed me the reason for the  reason for the activity, crabs, they were collecting the crabs from the traps they I had set I presume.

On the move I went by a sign for Bangkok, I had some miles to cover to meet Russell in time, though I did make a slight error in my mathematics by giving myself one less day so in-fact my urge to get the miles done was not so urgent.

Riding in the mornings is my favourite time of the day to cycle in as from 1130 onwards the sun is so fierce, there is very little or no cloud cover and it just drains my energy. Riding along in my own little world I was awaken from it early afternoon when I was going past a hill I could hear lots of gunfire, just at that moment I received a text message, I was half expecting it to say, ‘ Thailand is at war,’ or something along those lines, as it turned out it was just Russell telling me his flight details. The reason for the gunfire was a nearby army barracks which I soon passed, I guess they were on some training exercise.

I was riding after having another poor nights sleep, this combined which the afternoon heat left me with very little in the legs so I was very thankful to be assisted by a tailwind, the bike gods are kind. All along the road and this is something that has got worse in Thailand is the number of stray dogs, to my surprise so far none have given chase but with about 5kms to go to my final destination one dog decided my luck had run out. It came running out in front of me barking and showing the teeth he (or she) was planning to tare me apart with. Having a crafty idea I went hard on the pedals straight at the beast hoping he would back off enough so I could get ahead where some Formula 1 defensive style maneuvers would keep him behind my back wheel. The plan worked, I kept the dog from getting his leg of cyclist but I had pedaled flat out and my legs were on fire.

Getting into Kra Buri I rode around but could track down a hotel or guesthouse anywhere, when I asked I was pointed towards the resorts which I expected to be way over my budget, though as I’d been good the past couple of days I had 400baht for food and accommodation. Not keen to camp tonight as I felt really terrible I decided to check out one of the ‘resorts’ just to see what I would be paying because you never know. On the way down the side road to the resort a car pulled up asking if I needed any assistance, the driver for an out of the way thai town spoke excellent English. He told me he lived alone and said I should stay at his house tonight. There was something about the guy and how hasty he was to invite me to stay I was a bit uncomfortable with, my gut was telling me go check out the resort. I’m sure the guy was just keen for the company and wanted to practice his English but even though my gut has been wrong in Asia a fair bit I still go with it. I managed to convice the guy I would check out the resort first but he said to come back for dinner and that he’d be waiting, not promising I’d be back I cycled off without looking back.

I arrived at the ‘resort’ it looked very pricy indeed but was family run, even though 600 baht was still cheap for what it was I had to haggle to price down, taking pity on me I guess I got it for 300baht. What I got was a beautiful wooden shack with by far to most comfortable bed I have had so far.  I felt guilty about paying so little such was the ‘luxury’ I had just walked into and the sweetness of the people running the place. They gave me loads of little free goodies like steamed buns, heaps of water, milk and a few other little treats. For dinner I bought a huge bottle of pepsi and a delicious plate of rice all brought to my private hut for as little as 40 baht. I even had a kettle so I could make myself endless cups of tea, I was in heaven. Also the surrounding were so peaceful and calm I felt totally relaxed, I was enjoying this night.   

Oh we do like to be beside the seaside 17/02/2011: Takuapa to 89.11km

I had a restless nights due to how hot it gets within my tent. Outside was beautifully cool but without the slightest of breezes my tent is like a sauna which isn’t the best when you’re trying to sleep.  It took me 2 hours to get everything sorted and ready to go, I had hoped to be ready for the off within an hour but I guess my camping routine isn’t as well drilled as it was but it comes with time.

Riding I could feel the lack of sleep take over my body, I said to myself I deserved a real bed tonight because camping when its so hot is just silly. My main goal today was to be by a beach as this more than likely would be the last chance I would get to see the sunset into the ocean till Cali (in all honestly I have never in my whole life watch the sunset like this). The cycling today was pretty straight forward and uninspiring though I did see more cyclists, local and foreign, on the roads today. I made good ground today and by 1230 reached a beach to which had promising camping spots but this is where my own drama began. Having never really wild camped truly I’m a little edgy about where is a good place to put the tent up, I don’t want to get caught out by some dodgy or mischievous locals and be robbed or part of some joke to which they would find amusing, nor do I really want to be discovered. When the crunch came I was a little out of my comfort zone, having read a book by Alistair Humphreys he talked about wild camping and that the first night is the worst but stiff upper lip and it gets easier gradually. They was two beaches one was by a freshly tarmac road and you wouldnt call it busy, more a steady flow of traffic but there was people hanging around, the second was along a steep gravel road that was rather steep and I guessed it would be the quieter and more secluded of the two. Firstly however I cycled the 3kms back to town to get a few more supplies and completely chicken out and check the price of the guesthouse out. It was 450 baht per night which would blow my 500baht daily budget so back to the beach I went to face my fear. Pushing my bike up the steep gravel track I was thinking to myself maybe no one comes this way, at that very moment a motor cycle went by. I got up and over, there was a couple of disused beach huts but the beach itself was empty, I had the whole this to myself. I found a patch of flatted grass, then set about using the cut braches to try and camouflage where I’d put up my tent so vehicles wouldn’t be able to see me, I learnt this from Monty Pythons ‘the art of not being seen.’  

I tried to convince myself to  relax and enjoy it, fishing would help this so I went on the hunt for some bait, a rotten fish on the beach would do the trick. No luck on that score I opted for a swim instead. A few motorcycles and a couple of utes  passed by on the beach unawares I was there, I was beginning to relax and enjoy this a bit more. I waited till just before sunset before putting my tent up just incase anyone did come along the track where I was camping. Just before I put the tent up, the utes I had seen on the beach came along, I had been discovered but they were full of thai tourists and I actually didn’t mind them knowing my whereabouts, at least somebody knew of a cyclists camping by the beach. Just as I put the tent up a local on a motorcycle went by, I waved hello but was thinking ‘bollocks,’ he didn’t look hugely interested in me though, I hope this is the case.

As the sun began to drop into the sea I took my pictures then set about dinner of past, onion, garlic and tinned fish, you wouldn’t believe me but after weeks of noodles or rice this was a masterpiece. The mosquitoes where out in numbers but I’m coping, it’s just trying to get the cool sea air flowing into my steamy tent without letting the ants and mozzies in, going to be another uncomfortable night in thee ole tent.

Night with the Police 16/02/2011: Krabi to Takuapa 150.33km

The day started well right from breakfast where I had a feast of pancakes and honey. I was pretty dead set on camping today so I got a few supplies if I did. I needed to camp to save money, I have been spending way too much, although I will get plenty of opportunities in places like Mongolia till then my options are limited.

On the move the object was to try and live cheaply today but I still could resist the need to buy drinks of ice tea and orange juice (helps with the blood sugars). Today I ended up on some of the best roads I think since New Zealand, at the time I wasn’t entirely sure if it was the right road but it was smooth, very few cars and had twisty widening down hills, it was so joyful to cycle on, the corners seemed to lean with the turn and I felt like a moto GP rider leaning into the corners, well not quite but I was having fun.

My Police mate whose name I forgot.

Lunch I stocked up on a bit more food, I even thought I could get away with carrying a couple of eggs of which only one survived, RIP the other egg. I was finally in the part of Thailand I wanted to be, jungle, spectacular rock faces and just locals, not a single 7/11, big petrol station (they just sell it in glass bottles) and everybody was happy living the good life.

I made good ground so was aiming for Takuapa, I heard a story of a couple who just wondered up to local police stations and asked to pitch their tent up apparently never refused so I decided to try my luck when I got there but I kept an eye out for any other potential camping spots as knowing my luck I’d be refused. Once I arrived in Takuapa it was a decent sized town and locating the police station I asked a police officer suggestively if he knew of anywhere where I could put my tent up. He was friendly enough but didn’t seem massively keen on letting me camp within the police ground so instead said to go to the National Park ‘just over there.’ Bugger I thought so I headed back along the road I was going to ride tomorrow back tracking slightly. The art to finding a good camping spot is one that is hidden from view of people sounds easier than it is because you then need an area which has a nice flat area of soft (ish) ground. I still had  about 30 to 40 minutes of sunlight left so I wasn’t panicking, knowing when it is dark I will be spoilt for choice. A couple of kilometers from the town there was a small police box which I always manned by one or two people, I’m not entirely sure the purpose. I pulled up to ask if I could pitch a tent up somewhere immediately without hesitation the answer was yes, these guys were a bit more relaxed and I put my tent up underneath a battered canvas car porch. After a shower curtsey of a bucket I got on with dinner and got some water boiling. My new police friend however invited me to have rice and curry with him, shower and fed, luxury. He spoke little English but just enough so we could talk. After we’d eaten I offered to wash up but he wasn’t having it so I used the rest of my hot water and had another brew. A bit later a few more policemen showed up, these guys were in full uniform and looked the business. If you’re going to mess with these guys and muck their uniform up they will kick the crap out of you (I’d imagine). My police friend (for the life of me I forgot his name, grrrr) then gave me a beer to my surprise he was having one to! Only later did I find out he was going home, I think he said his wife was pregnant. He was a good guy and seemed a top police man to, I thanked him for his hospitality before he left. I retreated to the tent where I’m again just dripping with sweat, yuck! I feel pretty secure here, no one is bothering me, I mean whose going to. 

Krabi 14/02/2011 to 15/02/2011

I had a pretty long sleep in today, no need to cycle anywhere, just chill out and see what’s around.  I liked the look of Krabi, today I wanted to get few things sorted, quick check over the bike, get my washing done properly as it was toxic and in general rest mind and body. I just wondered round enjoying being able to talk to people as they all spoke English, most just wanted to sell my a tour in a long boat around the mangroves, 400baht was bit over budget but I did want a go in a long boat.

Add caption

 

I caught up with Rayann before she went to Ko Phi Phi which I have opted against due to cost and time. I had wee snooze till about 430pm then I rode to tiger cave which is a huge Buddhist temple complex about 8kms away. Cycling there I felt so strong, I was overtaking people on the motor bikes I couldn’t believe how fast I was going, thinking it must be tailwind I just enjoyed the ride, the way back I was just as fast though. Missing the turning I carried on to tesco to buy some food then eventually made it to tiger cave which was a spectacular temple. I wanted to climb the 1,272 steps up the top of the tower and get back down before it was dark as I’d been warned the steps are pretty steep and awkward in places. I raced up what people were doing in 40minutes to an hour in 15minutes but I suffered, my t-shirt (only t-shirt as all my other clothes were being washed) was soaked in sweat to the point where I couldn’t bear wearing it. The top however was amazing like I can’t describe, there was huge place for people to worship, it was a very special place indeed, so peaceful. I got down before darkness fell but needed to cool down and try dry my unbearably wet t-shirt.  

Next day I decided to go to Riley beach which after a 20km cycle could only be accessed by long boat, perfect. Getting there I was a little disappointed to find it was a bit of a tourist hot spot, full of European tourists and backpackers, the place looked amazing except for the mass of people. There was another beach set just a small cove over which looked a bit quieter. I went for a walk through the jungle for which seemed forever and not particularly easy walking it was directing me to a beach, must be secluded and not many people I was hoping. What seemed an age I ended up walking by a load of huts for backpackers to stay, the ones looking for that beach hippy experience and they didn’t disappoint. Everyone had dreadlocks and seemed the sort who were looking for the same experience as in the movie ‘The Beach’ and this is as close they will get to it, not being a massive beach person to me there is other places I’d rather stay but each to the own. I did hit the beach I’d been walking forever to get to and to my frustration it was the one just a little cove over that I could have walked round in 5 minutes.

Me and Liz

I headed back to the beach where I had originally started at by wading through the water as I had to catch my boat back from there. I had a quick swim then sat in the shade when right in front of me I saw a familiar face. It was Liz who I had shared a room with for few months in Sydney, to be honest this made my day as lazing on a beach in my opinion is pretty dull. It was so random and I only got to chat with Liz for about 30minutes before I had to catch my boat back, she was staying in the ‘hippy huts’ so had to stay on the beach but it was such a pleasant surprise to see her there.

My lift!

Back to where I had left my bike I set off back to Krabi into a headwind when a motor trike (its like a motor bike with a side cart added to the side for carrying people or ‘stuff’) went by, pedaling hard I caught up and grabbed onto the side for a tow to which the driver offered me a lift. Accepting my and bike jumped in, I wanted to ride in one of these because they looked a totally crazy ride, I wasn’t disappointed this time. Getting back I grab a shower and my washing done was able to wear fresh cloths, it felt good. From tomorrow I have a bit of a dash to Bangkok to get there before Russell does.

Move into the country eat me lots of pineapple 13/02/2011: Trang to Krabi 140.03km

Waking up today I wasn’t feeling my best, I had a decent night sleep but had a nagging headache which I think is due to too much sun, possibly touch of sunstroke but I’m not a doctor, it stuck with me  most the  day. Setting off I got myself the perfect breakfast, rice and a soup with lots of meat then I was on my way. I had a few problems finding the road I wanted, asking for directions will only give you a general idea or the complete wrong one but eventually I found the road I needed to be on. I started with a headwind but it soon turned into a nice tail wind, the bike gods are kind. After about 30km I decided when I stopped for lunch I wanted some fruit, all I came across was the odd pineapple so I got one for 20 baht then to my joy of joys I discovered tea, it was cold but had condensed milk in it which will do for me (it was my first tea in Thailand). Carrying on maybe another kilometer or two I noticed a waterfall, being too good an opportunity to miss I turned round to check it out. Where the waterfall was coming down there was a perfect pool to go for a swim. I now decided this day was going to be a chilled out one, I’d get to Krabi when I get there. I parked the bike up ate my pineapple and went for a swim, it would have been a perfect place to camp but as I was meeting Russell in Bangkok on the 25^th I had to put in the miles. I did think about skinny dipping but my fears were justified as a few other people showed up, so was glad I put some shorts on.


On my way again I maybe cycled till about mid-day when I noticed somebody else selling iced milk tea, so again I stopped and also took advantage of the free cold water that came with it. A few hundred meters down the road I stopped again to buy some bread, I decided I would have a bit of a picnic for lunch. One thing I needed was fruit which I soon got, oranges and chopped pineapple. Now I decided to get going, between 12 and 4 the sun is so intense my new plan is to keep out of it as much as possible during these hours but today I had ground to cover to get to Krabi. I was beginning to tire and just after I past about a 1km stretch of little stalls selling nothing but pineapples I found a shelter where I had lunch, my bundle of food and a wee sleep. There was a pineapple stall next to where I’d stopped and I got a whole pineapple for 5baht (10p in real money) bargain city.

I still had 50km to Krabi but after my power sleep I felt refreshed and covered the ground in just over 2 hours, I absolutely flew, it’s amazing what a 10 minute sleep can do, I felt like Popeye after a can of spinach. Getting into Krabi it looked a pretty cool place but heavy with tourists, this is the most amount of westerners I’d seen in Thailand, once more menus were written in Thai and English, stall sellers spoke some English and I actually got have a conversation with people. It was nice but I like it more when I’m somewhere where there are less tourists and nothing is in English, it’s much more fun that way, this all seemed too easy, not truly Thai.

I had planned to go to Ko Phi Phi getting there isn’t overly expensive but if you’re going for three days, I was only planning a day or two and accommodation is well over my daily budget before I even buy food, which I have still not kept to so after Krabi i`m going to man up and camp it, so I think I will just rest up in Krabi, the place seems interesting enough. One more thing before signing off, something that I think is going to scar me for the rest of my life, after dinner I was walking back when I heard the desperate cries of a cat coming from a garage door, looking up there was a kitten desperately trying to get down. Not much of a cat person I wasn’t going to grab it down it would probably scratch me apart but it desperately wanted to get down. I fear if the door is opened without the cat being removed it will be flattened but I’m hoping this is not he case.

Walled 12/02/2011: Satun to Trang 152.53km

I was rudely awaken to the song coming from the mosque next to my room at 5:30am this morning, which is slightly ironic as the first morning out of a Muslim country and into a Buddhist one (I think) I happen to be next to the nosiest  mosque in the world. Anyways I soon fell back to sleep again before my alarm went off at 6am, my signal to pack up and f@#* off, before I did I went for breakfast where  nobody speaking a word of English, I was given a pleasant surprise of a huge plate of egg fried rice, just what a growing boy needs.

The mosque from my room window

I’m going to try keep this short because I’m immensely tired and I find writing things the next day doesn’t work for me so I will persevere with finishing this now. Eventually setting off it was overcast, quite cool and the roads were undulating, pretty perfect stuff.  The sun inevitably did come through about 1030/ 1100 and cooked me hard, then from about 2pm I had a headwind to deal with. I think that is the reason for my absolute tiredness now, too much sun, it’s a powerful ball of burning gas.

The big difference between Thais and Malays is everyone in Thailand shouts ‘hello’ and gives you a big wave, they are such an upbeat bunch, it’s the enthusiasm in which they shout out hello that’s really quite special though it does wear me down a bit but I try and reply with the same excitement they give me. Getting to Trang I was stuck to find a cheap room when unknown to me the one I was after was just across the road. I again got myself a huge room for180 baht which is more than big enough for two people. Travelling in twos is the cheapest way to do Thailand it seems.

Tomorrow I should get to Krabi where I’m going to have some chill out time, right now I can barely hold my head up, I’ve not the energy to eat or drink, just sleep.

Number 3 11/02/2011: Alor Setar to Setan (Thailand) 126.52

Final moments before checking out
of Malaysia

I was so excited to be leaving Malaysia, it’s a weird thing to say because I liked it here but I was ready for something new and that something is Thailand. From leaving Alor Setar the first and pretty much last decent sized town I came to was Kangar where I had planned to get some Thai currency and food but instead ended up getting a new reel for my fishing rod and some fishing tackle. Leaving Kangar I ended up on the wrong road one that I thought would be longer but infact I think it turned out to be shorter. As my map didn’t show the road I was on or any road I don’t actually know where I crossed the border, but I don’t think it was the one I aimed for I say this because checking google maps the previous night all I had to do was go straight but I was taking all sorts of left and rights. Before I got to the border Malaysia gave me one last challenge and that was a hill so steep it was almost quicker to walk, only once before have I used the absolute lowest gears in my bike but not for the whole duration of a hill and I struggled but took on the challenge to give it my all and complete the hill in one go. Covered in sweat and feeling a b it queezy I won my challenge and was rewarded with an awesome downhill. I took it in a way that this was Malaysia’s way of saying ‘you’ve earnt the right to leave.’ Of course it could have been a hill anywhere but through the day I think about this kind of stuff a lot, you feel part of the land, the country if you imagine its communicating with you, it’s hard to understand and I probably just sound crazy.

Immigration was painless, there was an area of no man’s land where I had lunch. At first I thought this a special moment to be stamped out of one country yet not into another, but spotting a shop that sold duty free goods I realized that this is no different than being at an airport.

A break in no mans land

Upon getting into Thailand I had a problem, I had no Thai money (Baht). There were ATM’s about as I was in the jungle, I was just going to have to make do with what I had till I found an ATM. Thailand being a new country things were a bit different, the first were the road signs or any signs for that matter, Thailand has its own alphabet which looks as if a child has just scribbled and to the un trained eye, all looks the same, next was hardly anybody spoke much or any English (which made ordering food in the evening tricky but surprisingly I had my best feed of the trip so far, all for GBP2).

The ride to Saten was pretty smooth, I had a slight tail wind and made good speed. Just before arriving to Satan I weighed myself and was shocked to discover I was at a lowly 78KG, before leaving Australia I was knocking on 86KG. After dinner however where I ate till I could eat now more and drank till I could drink no more I found another set of scales, the reading of 81KG was a bit better reading but I’m still missing 5KG.

The hotel I found is pretty good for 230baht, or GBP4.50, double bed, free internet own shower toilet, fresh towels etc but I’m going to try stick to a budget of 500baht per day which means I’m going to have to ‘man up’ and camp a few nights. Looking forward to seeing what the rest of Thailand has to offer, but so far the craziness of the little food market stalls and the cheapness is right up my street.

The Penultimate lap (for Malaysia) 10/02/2011: Georgetown to Alor Setar 103.94km

Today the bike gods were content with me if not slightly on my side.  Everything worked as it should, the only issue I had was the hotel I had planned to stay in decided to play hide and seek by changing its name, something when asking for directions (which usually sent me on completely the wrong direction) people didn’t mention it had changed name or that there was a tourist information centre where I could grab a map and actually get somebody to put a big dot where it is. As it happened on finding the tourist information centre I asked as to the whereabouts of my dirt cheap hotel and it was across the road! It was a little more expensive than I had planned, RM27 where my ever unreliable lonely planet said rooms were as cheap as RM 13. The hotel was clean and probably the one of the best I have stayed in, in Malaysia.

The past few days I have been struggling to keep to my budget of RM50 per day, this is because I’m just eating and drinking (non-alcoholic that’s way over budget) masses of food. When I have my evening meal now, normally I will have two then afterwards carry on snacking. Drinks wise because of the heat I’m sweating buckets and I’m drinking plenty of water but I’m also drinking fruit juices (cost around RM1) ice tea and sugar drinks to keep my engine going. Today I tried to work out the number of calories I was intaking just with drinks and it worked out to be over 1000!

I should cross over into Thailand tomorrow, I can’t wait but I know it’s going to be tougher, people speak less English and Thailand having its own alphabet will make road signs pointless. The little challenges of the road. I love it. 

A Cyclist went to sea 8/02/2011: Kuala Kangsar to Georgetown 115.21km

Ferry to Georgetown

On the road by 9am, gluteus maximus vasalined up and I was on my way. All was pretty easy going, my knee was still cause for concern but seems to be slowly improving, I just have to take it easy. I met my first other cycle tourist today, she was German and had cycled from Chengdu, we had the normal excitable chit chat us cycling folk do when we see one another, its usually along the lines of  what the road ahead is like etc (for some that’s a long road). I was really interested in China as it’s the place I’m most apprehensive about. Apart from telling me the roads were pretty bad, the driving is something to be wary of she did give some good news and that was it’s the cheapest place she’s been to thus far. I gave her a map of Ipoh I’d picked up as she was planning to stay there then we carried along our merry ways.

All was going good, the sun was really strong and today was the day I ended my rain record as this was the first day cycling in Asia it hasn’t rained on me. Searching for the place I’d need to get the ferry across from Butterworth to Georgetown proved much harder than it should have been. Asking for directions I was getting answers to all over the place until one guy walked me the 100m I needed to go for the ferry! The ferry cost me and bike RM1.20 (11p) to get over to Georgetown on the island of Pinang. From a distance it looked cool, I guess it is a pretty good place but from the moment I got here there was something I wasn’t keen on about the place. This was the first place where there were signs for cyclists but ironically the drivers are the worst I have come across in Asia thus far.

These little piggies went to market.

I checked into a hostel for the pricey sum of RM 10 (2GBP) where I was meant to meet Rayann the Canadian girl I met in Singapore. I wasn’t feeling massively sociable and didn’t make much of an effort with people, for whatever reason but I go through phases like this. I went on the hunt for food and found the town incredible touristy and wasn’t very keen, it was busy, noisy and stank, I wasn’t in the best of moods but I wasn’t keen on this place. Having originally planned to stay 3 nights I decided 2 would be enough, I was feeling finished with Malaysia and ready for some island beaches in Thailand.

While eating I got to thinking about the peacefulness of being in my tent, especially in Australia and New Zealand, I loved getting somewhere springing up my tent cooking on the stove, food always taste better when you camping and a cup of tea always feels well earnt, then I’d spend the night gazing at the stars just in complete peace. I feel along way from those days but I’m sure Mongolia (if I make it that far) will throw up more nights like those of Australia and New Zealand.

After eating somebody in my room told me a Canadian girl was looking for me and that she was staying in the hostel next door. I went over and found Rayann, we got chatting like we were old friends, it sounds stupid but it was nice to see an old face, somebody I didn’t have to go over the same old chat with. We stayed chatting till around mid-night after a beer, beer is expensive (relatively) so we shared a big bottle. She’s to leave early the next morning but we are on similar routes so we might cross paths again. One thing before we parted was she warned me of bed bugs in the hostel, which is why she left! I didn’t have bedbugs but due to the heat and mosquitoes I had another bad night’s sleep.

HOT HOT HOT

9/02/2011: Georgetown

Washing clothes sporting a
superb tan

It was as bad as the title suggests but all I could do today was sweat, infact its 10pm, im sat in a room with a fan overhead  writing this and I still have sweat dripping down my face, at some points of the day I looked as if I just came out the shower. As it was so hot I didn’t want to anything before 4pm, I had already decided I wasn’t going to ride round the island as previously planned, mainly to the heat and that I was cutting short my time here by a day. Instead I hand washed my dirty clothes, this was about the highlight of my day, except maybe for cycling to Pinang hill where I missed a turn and I didn’t actually get to the road to go up it, as the road goes via the Botanically gardens which shuts at 7pm (it was 630pm by the time my mistake had been realized) I just went back to the hostel for a cold shower and food.

I got Blisters on me @*$# 7/02/2011: Tanah Rata to Kuala Kangsar 144.54km

When i did stop the views were
choice as bro!!!

Slow start to the day didn’t get going till 9am then I stopped at water fill up station, 20c (or aprox 4p) a liter wasn’t something I was going to miss out on.  I knew I was to be repaid in a good downhill stretch today, it’s the eventual reward for a hard uphill, however it took a while coming, for the first 25km I was up down up down. I also got to see the ugly side of the Cameron Highlands, where the land has been overworked and destroyed, there is preservation for the future, just money grabbers (or people making a living depends on your point of view) just consuming this beautiful place until one day mother nature wont be able to take anymore.

Carrying on, I did get my reward of a magnificent downhill, it was full of twists and turns, it wasn’t completely downhill there were a few flat areas and slight uphills but nothing to be concerned with, I managed to cover 40km’s in under one hour. The scenery was beautiful untouched, unspoilt  green hills for acres around, unfortunately I didn’t stop to take any pictures as I was enjoying the amazing downhill. I kept trying to see how fast I could get, the best I could managed was 65kmph, isn’t quite a record, my record is just over 70kmph done in New Zealand.

The road did flatten out, the sun was out in force today and after I had completed the decent it was roasting, about 10kms before Ipoh, the major town where I planned to have lunch,  I sat in the shade beneath an overpass for 10mintutes. When I got to Ipoh I was delighted to find a tourist information place, it was closed for lunch but no bother I got some myself. I had a bit of saddle sore coming on but I was hoping it didn’t get any worse else tomorrow would be very uncomfortable. The tourist information opened and basically I just wanted directions to put me on the right road ( and I wanted to sit in the air conditioned room for half an hour, it was bliss). It was 50km to Kuala Kansgar and my informant had told me there was some budget hotels. I considered camping but your never far from anybody here, I would see somewhere that looks hidden and after cycling few meters down the road I would see people hanging around or workman working, plus I had no food with me really so I’d have to get supplies. All in all I was having an expensive day and had already convinced myself to stay in a cheap hotel. 25km after Ipoh I stopped for a cuppa tea, an ice tea and a fizzy drink, the heat was incredible, when its this hot I don’t really feel like eating I just want to get as much in the way of liquids inside of me as possible, eating seems more bearable at night. 

Instead of showing my saddle sore

Anyway on my way again and for some reason my saddle sore was killing me now, it was worse on my left cheek and I was doing anything to try and get some relief, any bump or pothole would be torture but I soldiered on. Getting to Kuala Kansgar I went in search of a hotel, the first was RM88 too expensive for what I had in mind, pointing me down the road to a cheaper one I headed off and soon found it, RM188!!! Way too expensive, asking if there was anything for less than RM50 she pointed me in the way I just came. Knowing there was only RM88 per night hotel I carried on down the road till I came to the end of town, not a hotel, heading back I noticed I dingy looking rundown building that said hotel on it, if its still running it must be cheap I thought. It was still running and for a steal price of RM35 I had a huge room with two shabby looking double beds, toilet, shower I was in, bargin for the win.

Taking my bags to the room was embarrassing, my saddle sore was terrible, I was walking like somebody had shoved my seat post up my backside after they’d dipped it in acid and left it there. Showering was so painful again it almost brought me to tears. My gluteus maximus has always been a tender area for me, when I use to play paintball the worse place for me to be shot was my Gluteus. Things only got worse when I applied some first aid cream to it, I wanted to scream and took some painkillers it was that bad. Dinner only inflictited more pain, asking the very helpful waitress to recommend something not very spicy she did, she told me its normally spicy but its what the place specializes in and she’ll tell the chef to make it as non spicy as possible. It tasted great but was like a hand grenade going off in my mouth, on the Brightside it took the focus off my sore backside. I stopped at the supermarket to pick up a few supplies and as I was paying the security guy said he had to escort me out as you’re not allowed to bring bags into supermarkets in Malaysia. Being escorted after I’d bought my things I did my best to get a laugh out of the guy which I did so to the people watching the ‘English scum bag’ being thrown out may think a little bit lightly of it. Tomorrow I will find out if Vaseline is a cure or prevention of saddle sore! 

Onwards and Upwards 05/02/2011: ????? to Tanah Rata 80.9km

My curious friends on their motorbikes didn’t come back to execute whatever deed my paranoid mind was building up however sleeping next to a main road didn’t give me a great sleep, every car seemed to be roaring by.

I got up early in the morning and was on my way by 8am, my left knee again wasn’t feeling good so I decided slow and steady was the way forward, also I had a bad dose of saddle sore which I haven’t had since I was pedicabbing back in New Zealand.

After a cup of tea in Tapah I took the turn off to the Cameron Highlands, the sun was out, perfect day for riding. I was expecting a bit of a hill climb today, but I drastically made a mistake in my map reading, instead of reading 1500m (5000ft) I had read 1500ft. Of an 80km day, 60km were up a fairly steep gradient and I didn’t move anywhere fast. For the whole day I averaged around 10kmph! 

The Cameron Highlands is absolutely beautiful, the further up I got there were little stalls selling honey for RM 40 but the scenery was up there with New Zealand!   As the day wore on I increasingly tired and really had to did in deep. When I am having a hard day like this, I have to think of anything that will give me the resolve to carry on. I often think back to times when for example at rugby when training whoever was coaching has demanded more from me and pushed me that little bit harder, I try to imagine they are there pushing me demanding that little bit more out of me and it helps. By the end I was absolutely shattered, with 13km to go I stopped again for a tea, I was feeling weak and sick I could barely keep my head up.

Another little challenge I have been facing in Asia is the squat toilet, peeing is no problem but the number 2 just isn’t happening, what makes it worse is you then have to wash your backside out with a hose pipe! I’d rather find a quiet spot and dig a ditch than use a squat toilet but luckily I have been able to track down enough normal toilets on my travels to prevent too major a buildup. I carry a packet of tissues so I can wipe the normal way but it has meant some days I’m withholding as I hold on to find a suitable dunny.

Back to the day, I finally made it to Tanah Rata and for RM12 I got my own room, in what is probably one of the better set up backpackers I have stayed at in Asia. After I shower during which my saddle sore was almost bringing me to tears, I went through the normal routine of searching for a pile of food t satisfy my monstrous hunger which I found in a thai restaurant in the form of rice wrapped in an omelet with other things.

I’m still undecided whether or not to stay here another day to give the saddle sore and my knee an extra day to recover.

Lost Key

6/02/2011: Tanah Rata (Cameron Highlands):

Impressed with my RM12 room

I awoke for the first time in ages feeling a bit cold, being at 5000ft puts a chill in the air, I was loving the freshness of it all. I decided to stay an extra day, this decision made all the easier as I lost the key for my bike lock, which currently was doing a job on securing my bike to a pole, also I was in no rush, i`m meeting Russell in Bangkok on the 25^th of this month so im in no big haste and it gives my saddle sore an extra day of firming up. After searching high and low for the key I opted to look in town for a hardware shop where I’d buy a hacksaw to cut through the lock, this began after breakfast of course. The search for a hardware shop only led me onto my next meal of pineapple pancakes over which I spent about an hour chatting to an older English lady. Continuing the search I stopped to ask at the information centre where the hardware shop is, ‘the next town’ was the reply. It was only 5km away but I was too fussed on walking. I then headed back to the hostel for a final search which proved successful as upon turning the chairs over in the TV room the girl from reception handed me my key, delighted I spent the rest of the day not doing much at all. I visited a Buddhist temple and spent the rest of the evening feeding the little monster inside of me that wanted to be fed.

Day of two halves 04/02/2011: Kuala Lumpur to ?????: 142.28km

Before leaving Richards home I left all the little red envelopes full of money as it didn’t feel right taking it, I left a note saying this is for the kids in Cambodia where Richard does some charity work. Richard rode with me for about 6km before seeing me off, but before we said our goodbyes I had a problem, my new wheel had a loose hub. Tightening the cones back up I hoped this was just a wee slip up. It came to the time to say my farewell to Richard who had been nothing but  good to me and offered he me RM100 as a travel gift, refusing profoundly saying that he had been more than generous already he eventually put it away, instead he said a little prayer for me. Richard is without doubt an absolute saint, seemingly happy to do anything for anyone and once again I thank him for his amazing hospitality.

Myself, Richard and Hazel (by special request)

Setting off expecting the hub to brake again I was rather surprised it didn’t, instead I had to stop two more times as the mud guard was eating into the tire, the second time I removed it completely. It was now midday, I had only covered 30km in 3 hours of riding so opting to take it slow and steady as my left knee was still in a bit of pain, the plan was just to see how far I could get. Things were looking promising when at around 3pm I saw a sign for the town of Bidor  60km away, Bidor wasn’t too far from where I had originally aimed for, the day was beginning to looking up. I plodded away slowly ground out the miles. When I was thinking I should be coming up to Bidor, I came across a sign stating I still had another 13km to go, at that very moment it began to rain, then thunder, so I took refuge under a bus shelter.

View from the bus shelter as the rain came down

 Across from my little shelter I spotted a house with a nice little patch of grass just perfect for putting up a tent. It was getting late, the house seemed well kept and the cars in the driveway appeared relatively new so I knocked and was given the ok to put my tent up. I sat back under the bus shelter as the rain was coming down hard, once it passed I put the tent up, got my things organized then went back to the bus shelter to cook my dinner. All was going perfectly, I was being left

Packing dinner away

alone just to get on with my own thing, until a car pulled up, again quite a nice car, the drive spoke very good English and said this wasn’t a very nice neighborhood, that I should come stay at his house, stating I was happily in my tent he left, but told me to be careful. I decided to listen to his words and began to get my things together to go hide in my tent before too many people got wind of my location. Before I could leave two guys must be early 20’s late teens came over on a motorbike, they just stared at me then asked if I stayed in that tent, confirming this they left saying bye before returning this time with 3 of them. I was feeling a bit uneasy and they left again but shortly after just as I was making my dash to the tent another pair came up. One guy was interested to see my bike and they were having a good nose round my tent, feeling even more uneasy they began chatting with the guy who allowed me to stay in his garden, being a place where I imagine everyone knows everyone I don’t think I would be too highly considered. Back in the tent for the first time in a while is a lot like how I left it in Darwin, it is so hot and muggy with no breeze, nothing to keep me cool it feels as though I’m in a sauna, also I have a nagging feeling my friends on their bikes have got some fun and games to really get on my tits.

Happy Chinese New Year Kuala Lumpur; 30/01/2011 to 3/01/2011

Because of the rain the bike ride never materialized so instead Richard took me to a market which opens at 6am and closes at 10am. Why would a market open these hours? Because they were illegal, nobody had a licenses and Richard told me if he was to have a pair of shoes stolen from his house this is where he come to get them back. Through the course of my time staying at Richards home with his family, he took me everywhere I think possible in Kuala Lumpur,  we visited the Batu Caves where monkeys run free and if you walk 272 steps (rough guess) you get fantastic view of KL and see what the caves are about.  I was shown round Chinatown which in KL is a pretty good place to be, Bukit Bintang Road which is an incredible shopping street of KL. One evening he showed me up to look out point where there was restraints situated with amazing views over KL,  the time there I thought this is one place where you would impress on a date (unless of course they had already been there).  With the upcoming Chinese New Year which for the Chinese is a big celebration Richard had invited me to stay till the first day as after that the traffic on the roads would be much quieter and much safer to ride on, of course I agreed, I was interested to see what the fuss was about. On the 2^nd of February I was just about oraganised ready to leave the next day but not before I went for a quick shopping trip to Tesco’s. This was my little bit of England and wasn’t to be missed.  After getting a few bits for the road I began to cycle back to Richards house, on the wrong road disaster struck, flying down a hill maybe around 40 to 50kmph I spotted a grill in the road (here instead of putting the grill cross ways incase someone on a bicycle hits it the put it long ways so all the crap goes down with the water thus not a cyclists friend) no time to break or change direction I jumped the front wheel to stop my self and bike becoming road kill but this meant my bike wheel took the full impact with a huge thud. Instantly I knew I was in the crap and slammed my back brakes on. Inspecting the back wheel there was a humongous dent where the main impact had ben and a rather sizeable area where the wheel was now flat.   

If any has wondered why a wheel is circular and not square I will tell you. Trying to cycle the 10kms back to Richards house on a bike that jumps and thuds every revolution of the wheel is neither comfortable nor (if you try and sit down) good for your manhood. Trying to ride this on what is all but a motorway is also not sensible, in order to prevent further damage I rode slowly about 20kmph when everything around me is going 100kmph, the danger comes when you get the exit/entry ramps when you have to pedal like mad to get across before becoming a permanent  part of the road, every time I did this the back end would bounce about like crazy sometimes even getting air and risking the possibility of falling before the car manages to knock me off.  I survived and made is back to Richards house alive, bonus, where an hour before the Chinese new years eve party was about to begin I needed a bike shop. Without thought or hesitation Richard got his son, also called James to take me to the only bike shop open where hopefully I’d get a new wheel.

Hopefully was the main word as the owner of the bike shop first try to sell me a racing wheel which contained 16 spokes maximum (apologies for the bike talk, those who don’t know bikes, the more spokes you have the stronger the wheel, my wheel had 36 spokes, very strong, 16 spokes is only suitable for racers). I instantly lost respect for the guy after this, I heard he’s the mechanic for the Malay national side so I believe he knew what he was talking about, this means he was blatantly trying to rip me off!! Refusing to accept his advice he then brought me another wheel a few more spokes but still from what I could see only suitable for racing and certainly not what you’d want for touring. He then went on to tell me my wheel very cheap, and very weak, after 8500km with no buckles and no broken spokes I strongly disagree. The guy was  really F*#&ing me off a lot, he began to speak Malay to James, before he announced he had a tandem bicycle wheel. Designed to carry the weight of two people this would be perfect. I thought why didn’t this moron try sell me this first, after being massively ripped off for the wheel I left only to discover the hub axle on tandem bikes is about 145mm, whereas my bike is made for 135mm axles.  To every problem there is a solution, with all the decent bike shops being shut for a week for Chinese new year I was praying for a solution. As there was a crowd of people round, mainly the rest of Richards family, sons daughters grandchildren in-laws I decided not to dwell on my problems but to do what I come to do, find out what the worlds about.

From the next couple of days I found out and experienced more about Chinese culture and the meaning of Chinese new year more than what I every would sat in a backpackers talking where you from, what’s your age etc….Chinese new year is best describe as a mixed up Christmas and new years, its about family, Richard has a huge family, eating lots of food you only eat once a year, there is not the exchanging of gifts as there is in Christmas but they do have the red envelope in which the married couples will fill with money and give out to all the single young ones as a sign of prosperity, I did ok out of it. Richard being the selfless person he is took himself away from this in order to solve my wheel problem, as the wheel I bought doesn’t sit into my bike, he found a bike shop open about 45minutes drive away, they didn’t have a wheel but did have a solution, change the axle with a smaller one. Only problem with this is the wheel then needs aligning when sat in the bike. Fixing this problem myself I hope my bike is bodged enough at least until I can make it to Bangkok. Staying with Richard and his family has been an amazing time, I discoved new foods like soya bean curd different sides of KL your average tourist doesn’t see, had my first Chinese new year and rediscovered old fashioned values of the west burn stronger in the east, that family is important. For showing me around KL and introducing me to your family Richard I take my hat off to you, this is what I dream of when traveling.

Next I head to the Cameron Highlands, bike fixed but I’m not fully confident it is, my knees are still rooted, in fact my left knee only appears to be getting worse, ignore a problem and it soon goes away, or is it the other way round?!?!!?

First Milestone reached 29/01/2011; Port Dickson to Kuala Lumpur 103.01km

Yet another rainy day, but the fun of it today was I had some decent hills to ascend and come flying down, one problem with flying down the hills was the following,

·         I only had a working front brake as the back one was worn out,

·         Rain makes the brakes less effective,

·         Heavy traffic,

·         At the bottom of every hill was a set of traffic lights on red!!!!!!

To make things worse my left knee (which is one of the two dodgy knees I’m the proud owner of)  was in a lot of pain, with no one to complain or cry to I just had to pedal on till I found a hostel. Riding in to KL was a pretty scary experience, I was on what was all in name a motorway with 6 lanes of traffic flying down and cars entering and exiting everywhere. Unable to accelerate sufficiently because on my knee I had to exit at every point to avoid becoming road kill. Eventually I got sick of this and found somewhere to have a cup of tea while investigating how to get to Chinatown with out being the latest cyclist to be added to the road statistic score board. I got some directions, got lost asked for some more, before I new it I was in china town where because Chinese new year is neigh, the 3 hostels I tried were full. At the 3^rd hostel I got chatting to a bloke called Richard, he was Malay but his parents were Chinese, being brought up in Malaysia under British rule spoke superb English something I later found out was something he believes is need to be successful, also I think the fact he’d travelled  a lot (even cycle toured new Zealand) helped. Before I knew it he bought me dinner then I was loading my stuff into his car to stay at his house with his family. He has two children both who like he seems have very good jobs and a wife. After grabbing myself a shower and using the internet to send some e-mails, he gave me a quick tour of KL and bought me dinner. I was really touched by his kindness, offering money towards the meal he stubbornly refused anything from me, this was the case for the whole evening. The car journey back he said he’d wake me at 7am so we could go for an hours morning bike ride, not wanting to be impolite and say this is the last thing I want to do, I agreed to such a thrilling prospect when infact I really want to let me knee recover. Its great to meet the local people and experience their hospitality, I hope I will do the same in the future.

If you get lost, ride like mad and follow a car 28/01/2011; Melaka to Port Dickson 107.63km

The day didn’t start well, I had a simple left, right , left (or was that right, left, right) to get onto the road I wanted to be on to get to Port Dickson but a few dead ends and one way streets had me completely lost as yet again all sense of direction had abandoned me. Extremely lost I asked someone stood by the road, after trying to confuse me more he said when his brother picks him up to just follow them to the road I need to be on.  I followed them but I had to cycle the speed of a Track cyclist to keep up and when your bike weighs 50kg and the back brake has completely worn out its rather difficult. They led me to the road and I was off, nothing could go wrong from here, nice short day and I was dreaming of getting there checking into a hostel about 2pm enjoying the sun, lazing on the beach and chilling in the sea. As I approached Port Dickson I only got more excited seeing all the resorts there and the sea looked inviting after a hot days cycling. I decided to go right into the town to see what it was about, I wasn’t impressed it look dirty and not a place where tourist come, they are sent to relax in the luxury of the resorts. I rode round for a while and couldn’t find a backpackers anywhere, spotting a internet café I dived in to see what google could tell me as it was much easier than asking someone. Frustratingly I had to go back the way I’d came, after just 6km I found hostel accommodation but it was full, luckerliy for me there was one 2 minutes further back down but that was also full. No more hostels and not really keen to stay in a super grotty hotel I got a cup of teh (teh I have no idea what it is, looks like tea but its sweet and rather satisfying). While sat there I noticed someone looking at my bike, his name was Farok and he came over to chat with me, he spoke excellent English and he seemed to be a well respected man, like he was high up in the police force and then proceeded to tell me that back in the 60’s he shook the queens hand. I asked him if he knew of anywhere cheap to stay he said there is a hotel for around $30 back in Port Dickson, before then offering me a lift to Kuala Lumper.  Determined to cycle as much as I could back to England I refused his last offer. There was a younger guy with him also, I think he worked for him but wasn’t sure. They offered to show me where the hotel was back in Port Dickson so yet again I was pedaling like a maniac to keep up with another car. We got to the place Farok told me to wait outside I assume so he could get a better price for me. It cost RM40 which in real money is fairly cheap but I was trying to budget to RM 40 per day. The hotel was dirty and to be honest an absolute hole but I had a bed for the night. Sitting on my bed I felt really disappointed my sense of adventure had evaded me and I hadn’t carried on to try camp in a farmer’s field, instead I’d took an easy way out by throwing what limited money I have at the situation. Port Dickson is the first place where I felt a little uneasy, leaving the hotel straight off the bat I had someone telling me his story and asking for money. I shopped around for a plug adaptor for my laptop, which surprisingly I found before stumbling across a local football match. After eating I went back to my room to play with my new adaptor and make use of the rum I’ve been carrying.

26/01/2011 ; Pontain to Melaka 180.71km

Had a bit of a fright during the night,  I woke up around 3am and my throat had swollen to a degree where I was having real problems swallowing water, the surrounding for snuffing it in my sleep were perfect, dingy hotel room all by myself where I wouldn’t be discovered for 12 hours. I tried to think what it could be the cause and the first thing that sprung to mind were the anti-malaria tablets I had taken, true enough possible allergic reactions are swollen throat and the rash I had discovered on my back yesterday evening was listed, the advice was to seek medical attention at once! Opting for sleep I decided to see how I was in the morning and true enough it was a bit better.

After a breakfast of instant noodles and tomato I was ready for the off not before the hotel owner told me ‘I pay you, I pay you.’ A bit confused what he meant he came running out with two bottles of water saying ‘ I pay you.’ With an extra litre of water I sent off again touched by the kindness shown by the people in Malaysia. I had given myself a big target to get to Melaka today but I was relishing the challenge of it, though it wasn’t the smartest or even sensible thing to do as my fitness needed building up a bit more.

When I got going again after lunch I noticed to threatening looking rain clouds to the east, with another 100km to go to Melaka I didn’t want to be caught in it but luckily I had a get out clause as 45km up the road in the town of Muer I was informed there is accommodation there. With 20km to go to Muer the rain was steadily coming down and I decided to stop at a little roadside café where a few locals where having their afternoon tea. Only one of them spoke English but while I drank my sweet tea we all had a full blown conversation going and at the end we were all taking pictures of each other and having a good giggle, its moments like these which is why I love cycle  touring. I get going again true to form the rain fell so I opted to check out Muer and stay the night. Today was not to be my day, I carried on following highway 5 as my map showed only one road I found it hard to believe I had took  a wrong turn, but I never passed the town of Muer and feeling a bit uneasy I pulled up soaking wet in the pouring rain to where a guy was selling coconuts.  I asked him where we were on my map he seemed a bit puzzled and eventually  pointed to a town fairly close to my final destination. Feeling pretty proud at progress I sped off only to pass a road sign indicating ‘Melaka 40km!!’  Unable to understand what had happen I was pretty worried I was on the wrong road so pulling in at another roadside café I asked where I was again where my whole predicament made sense, the road I was on was brand new just opened and was a 10km longer but less winding than the road I should have been on.  I got my head down and pedaled like a man possessed till I got to Melaka where assuming a road sign saying ‘Melaka Sentral,’  would take me to the town centre, unfortunately it took me to a bus terminal on the edge of town and asking for directions was becoming infuriating as no one understood the English for town centre. Riding round seemingly getting nowhere I had a great idea, as where I needed to be was china town I just said the words ‘china town’ to people, everybody understood this and I soon was on the right track and into a hostel. It was quite late so after my shower I went straight out on the hunt for food, I hit the jackpot, for RM8 I got a huge plate of noodles which I noticed a group of 4 sharing. Afterwards I stumbled on a group of Australians heading to the pub for a few Australia day beers which seemed a fitting end to the day.

27/01/2011

If the first days ride was blowing the cobwebs out of the legs then yesterday was blowing the legs up, I was suffering a bit so I took the day to look round Melaka. It’s a pretty little place with old colonial building after being occupied by the Chinese, dutch and finally the british. The river is full of huge lizards all swimming around and tourist going up and down on the boats. My aim today was to rest the body but it would have been a great day to cycle as for the first time since being in Malaysia it didn’t rain!  I got myself another monster feed from the same place I went yesterday and drank countless cups of tea, just what the body needs. After looking round the town I gave the bike a quick check only to discover the rear hub was loose again so I set to work and figures crossed it stays fixed.